Camargue, France, March 20 - April 1, 2005

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       My wife and I spent two weeks birding in the Camargue, a marshy area formed by the delta of the Rhone, in late March 2005. We were based in a gite (rural rented house) in Gageron, 12 kms south of Arles. We had a total of 83 species during our stay, not too bad considering that most of the wintering ducks had left and the spring migration was just starting. More important than numbers, however, were the wonderful looks and photographic opportunities we had of many special birds: the greater flamingo, bittern, water rail, black tailed godwits, stone curlew, and even a short-toed eagle, among others.
        Our efforts were devoted to the Camargue itself; we did not venture into the Alpilles or the Crau, spots often visited by birders coming to this part of France. We did go one day late in our stay to the Petite Camargue, in the Department of the Gard near Aigues-Mortes, and were rewarded for our efforts by a great view of a purple heron, probably a recent arrival from Africa.
        In the Camargue itself, our favorite places were La Capeliere, the headquarters of the Nature Reserve, which had a productive short trail and several blinds; the Mas d’Agon, not far from our gite, where one can bird easily from a quiet road; and the coastal area of Ste. Marie de la Mer and La Digue de la Mer. Flamingoes were abundant at the Parc Ornithologique (Ornithological Park) de Pont de Gau.
        In addition to birds, the Camargue is famous for wild ponies and bulls which we saw in some numbers and which are featured in some of the photos. The captions give details on each shot.

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We'll start with shots of greater flamingoes--doubtless the most spectacular bird in the Camargue. They are common there year-round, on or near much of the coast. This is taken at the Parc Ornithologique de Pont de Gau, a managed habitat with a wide variety of waterfowl. Visitors viewing flamingoes at the Parc Ornithologique. My cameras are visible in the foreground. A greater flamingo in a characteristic foraging mode. Flamingoes chest-to-chest, probably in a sort of friendly joust, at the Parc Ornithologique. Flamingo in a spread-wing display. At the Parc Ornithologique. Flamingo in a wing-stretch (which often follows the wing-spread shown in the previous image). At the Parc Ornithologique. A greater flamingo shortly after takeoff. Flamingoes in flight, over the Parc Ornithologique. This was our two-bedroom gite in Gageron south of Arles, on the near corner of a larger farm complex. Although modest on the outside, the rooms were spacious and well furnished. Afternoon in our gite's kitchen, with its southern exposure. The gite's living room. The horns over the fireplace and the posters testify to our landlords' interest in bulls. Some of the farm buildings adjoining our gite. The owners lived here, and raised bulls as their main activity, on a separate pasturage. We were given an extensive tour of the bulls' pasturage (about 6 kilometers from the gite itself), during the distribution of their daily ration of hay. A close-up of some of the bulls--taken from our safe refuge in the host's pickup. Morning mist over fields on our most frequent route near the gite. A view a bit further along our regular route. Most of the Camargue is flat and criss-crossed with canals. A bittern (or great bittern)--our first in Europe, which posed by the road just before the preceding view. A cattle egret (identical to ours) on a white horse, as we saw them most often on this trip. But see the next shot ... ... This cattle egret was clearly less risk-averse than his compatriots! A great crested grebe--generally the most commonly-seen grebe in our experience, both in France and England. Black-necked grebe (identical to our eared grebe), in breeding plumage at the end of March. A little egret (egretta garzetta)--closely related to our snowy egret--which was the member of the heron family we had most often on this trip. Little egret in flight. Note the feet (or toes), which are much darker than the delicate yellow slippers of our snowy egret. Grey heron (closely related to our great blue, though somewhat smaller). Taken at the Parc Ornithologique. A purple heron, presumably just migrated from Africa. These colorful birds are summer visitors to southernish portions of Europe. A black-winged stilt (very closely related to our black-necked stilt), foraging characteristically in shallow water. The geometrical patterns formed by the stilt's legs as it forages are irresistible to photographers (at least to this one!). Black-winged stilts were the most common shorebird on our trip, giving me many photo-ops. Here my camera's auto-focus functioned through thin reeds. Black-winged stilts are often found in flocks. A black-tailed godwit, at La Capeliere--another life bird. They were migrating north in significant numbers. Black-tailed godwit, displaying its wing-and-tail patterns as it lands in shallow water. Common snipe, at the main blind at La Capeliere; it's the European species recently separated from our Wilson's snipe). We have rarely seen so many of these snipe so much in the open. A water rail, which made repeated close appearances at one of the blinds at La Capeliere. This was another life bird for us--we saw at least three on this trip, including this one. A stone curlew--a bird we had eagerly sought. We owe it to a Frenchman who had seen it, told us about it and then backed up with us at least 100 meters on the road to show it to us. First-winter black-headed gull. A Eurasian species that is a regular vagrant in North America. Yellow-legged gull (larus cachinnans). A Eurasian species closely related to herring gull, from which it was separated some years ago. A common buzzard (or just buzzard--buteo buteo is the scientific name). By far the most common raptor in most of the European regions we have visited. A wonderfully low-flying short-toed eagle, which was a life bird for us! Loosely related to our two eagles. Eurasian collared dove, which has been introduced and is spreading in the US (mainly in the south). Pied (or white) wagtail--the commonest of four Eurasian wagtails. Eurasian tree swallow. Cetti's warbler. Far more often heard than seen, with an explosive warbling song, generally from deep within substantial vegetation. I was delighted to get this shot. Part of the "Alpilles", a series of rocky outcroppings marking much of the Camargue's northern border. (The name means "little Alps." ) On our only hike in this area, we did not see much bird life, but the scenery was spectacular. A sunset at La Grand Mar. This is a productive marshy area near our gite, where we saw the bittern and Cetti's warbler, as well as many little egrets, black-winged stilts, gulls, grey herons, swans, a couple of glossy ibis, and various ducks.

Bird Photographs by John Van de Graaff